EuroVelo 5 - Hills of Tuscany - Our 8 Day Itinerary
- Chris Leggett
- Aug 31, 2024
- 8 min read
Beau and I had not planned on returning to Europe this year (2024). However, an invitation from a good friend to attend her wedding in southern Germany seemed to be the only excuse we needed. Our dilemma was we didn't have much time for an ultra long cycle tour as we had done in the past. So we decided to focus on the region surrounding where our bikes are stored. To be honest, we hadn't done much research about cycling south of the river Arno as the previous two trips we have cycled north into either France or Slovenia. Little did we know, it's one of the best locations for a cycle holiday in all of Italy.
The Plan
Our initial goal for the trip was to cycle from our home base in Santa Croce Sull'Arno down to Rome via the Eurovelo 5 and return via the Eurovelo 7 all within 11 days, just under 100 km per day. However, upon researching the route I realised just how hilly the "Hills of Tuscany" really are we realised this might be a bit to ambitious, given we don't keep bike fit at home. Instead we decided to take our time and ride down to Rome via the Eurovelo 5 and take the train back.
Our itinerary
Day 1: Santa Croce Sull’ Arno to San Gimignano
We set off on our tour with a big first day, riding 82 km to our first destination of San Gimignano. We passed through the beautiful hilltop town of San Minitato, which boasts breathtaking views over the Tuscan countryside, before tackling a few of Tuscany’s large rolling hills. Once we reached our halfway mark, we rewarded ourselves with a delicious salad (drenched in olive oil, of course) at a local bar in the quaint village of Castelfiorentino. And we seemed to have arrived at the right time too, as a line filled with Italians of all ages eager to secure a table at their favourite lunch spot quickly formed out the door.
By the time we arrived at our campsite in San Gimignano, it was already 5pm. We were both feeling very weary, having cycled over 80km and climbed 1,300m – a more challenging ride than we would normally tackle on our first day touring. After setting up camp, we rode back to town to gorge on two huge Italian pizzas to replenish the calories we’d depleted during the day. What's more, we tried the "world's most famous gelato of 2024" at Gelateria Dondoli (I know, don't all gelato stores claim this title? But it was seriously good!). The queue was massive, but worth the wait. We tried the local flavours Crema di Santa Fina (made with pine nuts from Pisa) and Raspberry with Tuscan Rosemary, which were unique and delicious. What an amazing (and fulfilling) start to our Tuscan adventure!
Day 2: San Gimignano to Siena
We woke up nice and early in San Gimignano to explore the town. The town is directly located along the Via Francigena and is famous for its towers, of which 13 of the original 76 stand today. You can imagine how impressive this skyline of towers would have looked to pilgrims approaching the town in the 1400s. We learnt these towers are called “tower houses” as they served as both homes and defensive structure for noble families to reside. We enjoyed a typical Italian coffee, some paninis and pastries out the front of a local café as we watched the locals and tourists wander by on the cobblestone streets.
Today’s ride to Siena would see us cycling a smaller distance of 58km. We’ve often found this distance the sweet spot when cycle touring, as it allows plenty of time for exploring the sites along the way. We rode along quiet roads surrounded by the beautiful hills that epitomises the Tuscan landscape. Beau pointed out a hilltop fort from the road, and we decided to venture up to take a closer look (I’m so grateful for our ebikes). The road to the fort was extremely steep and made up of cobblestones, so we put our bikes in turbo mode and bumped along on our way up to the top. We stopped for a gelato at the fort (I chose café and chocolate), and then continued on our way until we arrived in Siena.
Day 3: Siena to San Giovanni D’Asso
Our third day consisted of a manageable 57 km of cycling, so we spent the morning exploring Siena – a town steeped in history. The small Italian town is home to the world’s oldest operating bank, and a horse race that dates back over 800 years. According to legend, the city was founded by Senas, the son of Remus, one of the mythical twin brothers who founded Rome. It is also home to the Siena Cathedral, which is known for having one of the most beautiful facades in all of Italy. It’s a must see in our opinion, and worth paying to have a look inside if you can spare the entrance fee. However, one of our biggest highlights was trying the traditional Sienese cakes! We tried the local “Panforte” a centuries old cake that was traditionally made by filling empty honey pots with water and flour, to use every last drop of honey. We found a quiet corner in the Piazza Del Campo – Siena’s main square where the famous 800-year-old horse race takes place every year, and enjoyed our panforte cake with some local lasagne and fresh bread.
The ride to San Giovanni D’Asso was very peaceful and relaxing, as the path took us on mostly dedicated bike paths and through quiet villages. We stopped for a coffee and a snack at a local supermarket, and picked up some groceries to make a simple dinner at the campsite. We opted for gnocchi, a dish both of us love and had an early night. We fell asleep peacefully to the sound of the rain, which, unbeknown to us at the time, would set in for the next few days.
Day 4: San Giovanni D’Asso to Acquapendente
We had to pack up camp in the rain (fun, I know), before we set off on one of our biggest rides – 89km to Acquapendente. The landscape was stunning, even in the cold and miserable weather, but we decided to stop at a local bakery for a hot coffee and some pastries, in the hope of waiting out the rain. We tried a local “Barba” cake for the first time – a pastry soaked in alcohol, which was delicious (and now a favourite)! Unfortunately, we realised the rain had set it, and so we continued on our way, trying to keep our spirits high.
The ride was incredibly gruelling, with the persistent rain beating down on us throughout the day. One of our bikes even ran low on battery, so we found ourselves sharing the bike with the remaining charge to taper our exhaustion. Normally, we would stop for a break to eat and shelter from the rain, but on this particular ride, shops were few and far between. So we pushed on feeling cold and hungry, having to stop a few times as the feeling of exhaustion and nausea set in.
After riding for over 5 hours, we reached Agritourismo II Sentiero, where we would be staying for the night. Once we settled in and had a nice hot shower, we made our way down to the local pub for some pizza, which we happily washed down with a couple of tall beers.
Day 5: Acquapendente
After the wet and challenging ride we experienced the day before, we decided to spend another night in the Agritourismo to rest and relax. After a nice sleep in, I made the most of a brief break in the rain to ride into town to get some supplies. We decided it would be a nice idea to pick up some snacks and drinks as well as some ingredients to make a nice evening meal together. We settled on a late lunch, starting with local wine and snacks, followed by (way too much) chicken pesto pasta.
Day 6: Acquapendente to Viterbo
Our stay at Agritourismo II Sentiero included a buffett breakfast in the morning, with a large selection of cold meats, cheese, bread and cakes. This was such a highlight! I am now in love with the Italy’s typical chocolate tart, which you can find almost everywhere in Italy.
We rode 63km to the town of Viterbo. This ride was one of our favourites of the trip, as it took us around a lake and on some offroad trails through beautiful forestry. We set up camp at a campsite located just outside the city. We were the only campers there at the time, and the campsite had just been renovated and opened, so they facilities were modern and clean. We were starving when we arrived, so we researched the best pizza restaurant in Viterbo and discovered Il Monastero, a pizza restaurant with amazing reviews. And honestly, its reputation is well-deserved, as they were some of the best pizzas we’ve ever had (and we’ve had a lot of pizza)! We learnt the town of Viterbo has a very interesting history, as it was occupied by the Etruscan people, before being conquered by the Romans in around 300BC. Because of this, there are remains of both civilisations present in the area. The town was also home of the popes in the 17th century during civil unrest in Rome. During this time, the town was considered a place of great importance, and to this day, is still known as “the city of popes”.
Day 7: Viterbo to Campagna Di Roma
We woke up and began our journey early enough to enjoy the sunrise on the 77km ride to Campagna Di Roma. We rode along countless quiet roads and through small villages on our way to the city. Upon arrival into Campagna Di Roma, we realised we were incredibly lucky, as the town was hosting one of the region’s most important historical festivals. The annual celebration of agricultural harvest is a tradition that dates back to the early Roman period. During this time, the streets of Campagna Di Roma are filled with stalls selling the region’s best wine and produce. We tried the famous Romanesque artichokes, which are cooked in olive oil, salt and wild mint. These kinds of unexpected and unique experiences are what we love about cycle touring.
Day 8: Campagna Di Roma to Rome
The final day of our journey arrived so quickly. Today, we would ride 45km to the city of Rome. As we rode towards Rome, watching the sun rise over the beautiful Tuscan landscape, we found ourselves reflecting on our time in Italy. The country lacks the cycle infrastructure of neighbouring countries, like Austria and France. But the Tuscan countryside has to be one of the most stunning places we’ve ever ridden. And as the days passed, we slowly found ourselves enjoying the chaotic and adventurous nature of cycling in Italy. We became accustomed to riding on the road, and dodging the occasional pot hole. As time went by, these small negatives became less significant, and less noticeable. We found the Italians to be full of love and passion. People speak with their hands, and the greet each other with a big hug or a kiss. Food, culture and tradition are clearly important here.
Ultimately, the beautiful rolling hills of Tuscany are a beautiful place to ride for any cyclist interested in culture, and up for a bit of adventure.
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Check out our packing list article for a full list of the gear and equipment we recommend taking on your own self-guided cycle tour. And if you're still not sold on cycle touring, check out our "why we love cycle touring" post for a deep dive into why we've fallen in love with this unique way of travelling. Thanks for stopping by, and happy touring! Beau & Chris
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